Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Hagafen Cellars - 179

In Hebrew, hagafen means "the vine." And I was fascinated to learn that a premiere kosher winery exists in Napa! When people think of kosher in regards to wine, one immediately thinks of Manischevitz, but Hagafen Cellars is Napa-based, certified kosher, and astonishingly great! I am not going to give a whole analysis of how kosher wines are made. There are enough websites that will do that other than to tell you that the wine is briefly flash pasteurized at 185 degrees and blessed by an in-house Rabbi.

Located just off the Silverado Trail, Hagafen is owned by Ernie and Irit Weir and by all accounts, they are very hands-on owners with Ernie managing the vineyards AND making the wine. The day of my visit, a large group was expected for lunch and I was told how Irit had prepared an entire Turkish-inspired meal.

Although I did not get an opportunity to meet the Weirs, I was introduced to She Who Really Runs Everything: Lola. We all know that winery cats are true power behind the thrones and Lola certainly held court as stately queen of the tasting room. Another interesting aspect of the tasting room (one you MUST ask about), are the frogs...

The tasting room is small and elegant, surrounded with cases of wine and accolades on the walls. You can hear the high-pitched chirps echoing around you. They are there, you see... Small little frogs who like to hang out in the tasting room, mostly behind the framed pictures of the family, articles, and well-deserved ratings. It is charming and disconcerting at the same time and I'm surprised Lola hasn't had her way with them...

2001 Brut Cuvée Sparkling Wine - Yep, a sparkling kosher! Made from Carneros grapes which are purchased, a mere 500 cases are made. 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, this wine is creamy and nutty with hints of toast and ripe white fruit. $30.00

2004 Chardonnay - 100% malo displays a light, creamy floral nose. Initial flavors are of yellow peach and apricot with a light, toasty oak finish. $18.00

2004 Pinot Noir - 8 month in French oak. Bright cherry and raspberry aromas mirrored in the crisp mouth entry. Engaging terroir is warm and rich in this medium-bodied wine with a soft, mineral finish. $32.00

2002 Merlot - Warm, dark cherry bouquet. Easy spiced tobacco entry with hints of chocolate. Developed and easy to drink. $27.00

2000 Merlot - With 10% Cabernet. Some funky earth terroir blows off to display older brambleberry tones. Medium-bodied with integrated tannins. $39.00

1998 Merlot - Bricky-edged color showing age and earth and leather and a tease of the fruit from days gone by. Probably has six month to a year left in it and great fun to find an affordable library wine! $49.00

2001 Syrah - Terroir-driven earthy wine with a touch of brambleberry. Merlot-like nose and an easy, berry fruit mouth entry that brightens upon opening. Medium bodied makes this another easy-to-drink wine. $27.00

2000 Syrah - Similar to the '01 with a bit more earth and age. $39.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon - With 12% Cabernet Franc. Earthy tobacco and leather nose. Beefy, dark fruit textured flavors with perfectly balanced tannins. $40.00

2004 White Riesling - At 3.9% residual sugar. Engaging nose of white flowers and a hint of bright spice and freshly cut grass. Clean tastes of white fruit; white pear, white grapes, and white melon. Not syrupy or sticky, but crisp and fun. $19.00

Hagafen Cellars ~ 4160 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ Ca ~ 94558 ~ 707-252-0791
$5.00 for four current release whites
$5.00 for four current release reds
$10.00 for four library wines

Signorello - 177

Along the Silverado Trail, there sit a handful of wineries that are located up on the edge of the hillside - making entrance to the facilities up long, stately drive ways. Signorello is just such a vineyard and upon arrival, guests face an elegant, half vine-covered stone building.

A glance behind the building makes visible a handful of outdoor sculptures, a swimming pool, some patio furniture, and a built-in barbecue. The first thought is that some really great parties must be held here. When you wander into the building, immediately to your left you will see a kitchen. Yeah, REALLY good parties...

During my visit, the single worker manning the tasting station seemed a bit overwhelmed, but managed to keep track of everyone's pourings. During a quiet moment, I managed to ask him about the kitchen. I was wrong about the parties. The location is classified as a private residence, hence the kitchen, swimming pool, etc. The tasting bar is merely an adjunct to Ray Signorello Jr.'s home - although he lives most of the time in Canada.

2003 Pinot Noir, Las Amigas Vineyard - These are from vineyards that were planted by Louis Martini in 1946. Warm, earthy tones with a candied cherry core. Medium-body mouth entry, the tone finishes a tad hot. $36.00

2002 Zinfandel, Luvisi Vineyard - This 100% Zinfandel has surprisingly light aromas of raspberry. The flavors are a bit heftier, but not a whole lot; some dark fruit and spice with an acidic entry. $34.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate - Green bell pepper and jalapeño aromas. Hot, spicy entry with some purple fruit under the heat showing an unbalanced finish of dryness. $39.00

2002 Syrah, Estate - Dark purple color giving off green, hospital aromas. Hot, hot, hot. $36.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate - 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot. Green olive and cherry with some dusty, woods twigs in the center with a dry, peppery finish. $48.00

Signorello Vineyards ~ 4500 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-255-5990

Madonna Estate - 174

Madonna Estate is one of those that I have driven by dozens of time, located at the edge of the Napa and Sonoma county lines in the Carneros appellation. It was a pleasant surprise to learn of a history that dates back to the 1920s. I have to claim some surprise however -- the story goes that Andrea "Andy" Bartolucci purchased his first vineyard in Oakville in 1922 where "he began crafting wines with his son Louis." This was during Prohibition so one can only assume he was making sacramental wine for the church. But when I asked about this of the winery staff, no one seemed to have a definitive answer.

In 1970 the original Madonna Winery in Oakville was sold and seven years later, the current facilities were constructed by Louis' son, Andrea. They began organic, European-style dry farming techniques and became certified organic in 1990.

There are some lovely things about Madonna; a private picnic area and some more obscure wine offerings like Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Dolcetto (none of which were offered to me). The biggest downside that I can see from a driver's standpoint is that the winery seems to be a main stopping point for tour busses. During my visit, I was in between bus tours. It seems that the tours might be afforded some additional barrel tastes or personalized tour that is not available if you just arrive on your own. I would call and check on this -- it may have simply been a happenstance of the timing of my visit.

2003 Estate Chardonnay, Carneros - Light and lemony which darkens to show lemon peel in the nose. Warm, creamy mouthfeel of mostly yellow fruit with a mineral finish. $24.50

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros - Thin, mineral, herbal aroma. The vegetal entry blossoms to show ripe raspberry, but fails to go anywhere after that. $28.50

2001 Merlot - Overwhelmingly green; nose and mouth is filled with vegetal green onion, green olive, and fresh, leafy tobacco. I think there was some berry flavors in there somewhere. $32.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon - Encouraging that they purchase their Cabernet grapes from a grower in the Rutherford appellation. I have yet to taste a Carneros Cabernet worthy of drinking. This Rutherford Cab showed some of the classic Rutherford dust characteristics but with an initial bouquet of green bell pepper and then some faint cherry. Warm spice embraced the tongue finishing with a dark cassis and woodsy twig flavor. $34.00

Madona Estate ~ 5400 Old Sonoma Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 866-RAGAZZE

Carrefour - 167

There is always a pang of guilt when I am introduced to a Napa-based winery that I had never heard of before. At the Copia Cognoscente tasting, I was wracked with guilt seeing a roomful of unfamiliar names. So I was extremely grateful to a few folks who stuck around during the lunch break to chat with me, first and foremost, Greg and Marilyn Nitz, proprietors of Carrefour Vineyards, along with their winemaker, Kelly De'Ianni (she's the one on the far left).

With fifteen acres of grapes that they had previously been selling to Rombauer and still sell to Duckhorn, the 2004 their Sauvignon Blanc is now their first release. Additional grapes planted include most of the Bordeaux varietals with Pinot Noir coming from purchased grapes in Carneros. Great people and great wines -- and something new worth looking out for!

2004 Oak Knoll Sauvignon Blanc - Intense green fig and floral bouquet. Grapefruit entry is balanced and vibrant without being astringent. The lemony finish shows depth and elegance. Only 340 cases produced. $16.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - 1,200 cases produced of this new entry on the Pinot market. Bright spicy cherry in the nose mirrors the mouth entry. Tons going on in layers of complex fruit and integrated spice. The overall structure is medium bodied and the finish keeps going. $28.00

2003 Napa Valley Cabernet - 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot. Dark, rich purple wine. Still unreleased, the flavors are admittedly young with depth of herb and mineral. Fruit is still tight and I would love to taste this wine in five or ten years. Not yet priced.

Carrefour ~ No address yet available ~ 707-252-9167

Diamond Oaks - 155

Diamond Oaks is a relative new-comer to the Napa Valley wine scene. Located on the edge of a mountain up the Oakville Grade, the building facilities was once better known as Vichon (a Mondavi project) - and, for a short while, La Famiglia (another Mondavi project).

Indian-born Dinesh Maniar is the current proprietor. Having already acquired numerous Napa and Sonoma vineyards, the acquisition of this property from the Mondavis was a jewel in his wine-bedecked crown. By all accounts from those who work with him, Maniar is an introspective, unassuming gentleman who has made some very impressive improvements to the property.

The tasting room, when it was La Famiglia, was known for the hand-painted wall-sized mural. That was the only aspect of the original hospitality area that Maniar retained. The building was slightly retrofitted to accommodate much-needed windows for light, new marble floors, and elegant lighting fixtures (selected by Dinesh himself).

Of special note is the picturesque picture area. Undoubtedly one of the most stunning views of the valley, for a mere $30.00, the winery will reserve a table, provide a bottle of wine and glasses, and place a checkered tablecloth to await your culinary delight. Corkpulls are strategically dangled from the trees, just in case you forget...

2001 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - Maniar owns 95 acres of Chalk Hill vineyards. This 100% malo chard is fruit forward, with intense lemon and tropical fruit aromas. Initial flavors are fruit forward with lemon and a hint of cream. The finish shows nuts, oak, and a touch of butter. $29.00

2001 Reserve Carneros Chardonnay - Another 100% malo, but this one has seen 100% French oak. Rich, full, layered offering with a tropical bouquet surrounding a core of butterscotch. Flavors dance between lemon meringue and clean pear. $39.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - Simple aromas of cherry, licorice, and earth in the nose. Bigger fruit flavors explodes in the mouth, counter to the thinner bouquet. Tight and young, earth and licorice dominate. $19.00

2002 Silver Carneros Merlot - Deep tones of green olive, rich earth, and some cherry. Richer fruit flavors of solid dark fruit, a mid-palate of toast, finishes with a tease of eucalyptus. $17.00

2002 Hira Ranch Merlot, Carneros - 70% French oak, 20% of that is new - the other 30% is American oak. Dark chocolate and tobacco qualities in the nose. Initially soft and supple upon entry, dark berry and earthy qualities become rich and complex on the finish. $29.00

2003 Cabernet, Alexander Valley - (Wine Club only). A pre-release tasting is still a bit green with tons of rustic herbs and cherry. Gobs of chocolate mint on the nice, lingering finish. No price.

Diamond Oaks ~ 1595 Oakville Grade ~ Oakville ~ CA ~ 94562 ~ 707-948-3000

Clos Pegas - 154

I was very surprised when I drove up to Clos Pegase. I was surprised that I had not made a more concerted effort to seek it out, considering the astonishing artwork and beauty of facilities.

Jan and Mitsuko Shrem's story of their relative humble beginnings is very impressive - and what they subsequently built here in the Napa valley is even more impressive. Jan traveled to Japan in the mid-1950s on vacation. Falling in love with the country and a woman, Mitsuko, he stayed and began a modest publishing in Japan. That modest publishing house grew into a small fortune, enabling Jan to travel to Bordeaux in 1980 to study winemaking.

Within three years, he had purchased fifty acres of prime Calistoga real estate and an invocation of a Bacchic spirit. The facilities were built in the mid-1980s with the intent of housing the impressive art collection that the Shrems had amassed. With a reverent  bow to the Greek temples, the edifice hearkens to the bleached white ancient temples but with a minimal cornice, negative space insets alluding to columns a single pillar in front which invites the visitor to a courtyard of additional pillars, and a color scheme slightly resembling orange and strawberry sherbet.

The grounds are filled with the Shrem's collection of art. As you enter the facilities, a number of large sculptures greet the visit -- from the whimsical giant thumb, set alongside working vineyards, to kinetic and a more classically Greek-oriented Herm. Also available within the grounds are picnic tables. While cheese and other picnic items are available within the tasting room for purchase, it is nice to know there is a spot amongst some engaging artwork where visitors can bring their own picnics.

The tasting room itself is also bedecked with a variety of modern and historical works. Behind the tasting bar is a tremendous scene of a Sybaritic bacchanal but several lighting units are decidedly modern with loops of folded glass cascading down from the ceiling. The room is large and inviting and also contains a two-story glass entryway, adequately showing off the impressive barrels in which wine is aging.

2004 Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay- Golden yellow in color, dark pineapple dominates the nose. Rich fig and floral qualities coat the mouth in a creamy offering. The finish shows some mineral qualities but the ending is long and luscious. $21.00

2003 Mitsuko's Vineyard Pegase Circle Reserve Chardonnay - From Carneros, this lighter, lemony colored wine immediately displays lemon meringue qualities in the nose, subsiding to some depth of kiwi and faint pineapple. Soft entry blossoms with yellow floral tones and bright fruit. $24.50

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest being a proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. Mostly green nose of bell pepper and chili pepper. Tight, chewy entry was a tad hot. Needs time. $32.50

2002 Pegaso - 44% Petite Sirah, 44% Zinfandel, and 12% Syrah. Opulent bouquet of blueberry, bacon, and dark spiced berry. Tight, hot mouth entry slightly disappoints considering the amazing nose. Perhaps it just needs more time as well. Unknown price.

2000 Graveyard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon - From Carneros. Erratic aromas of spice, green bell pepper, and minerals. Very bright, tight entry showing youth and green chili peppers. Apparently it is considered a good selling point as the pourer was encouraging in his description of the inclusion of pepper flavors. Very, very odd. $60.00

To their credit, I have heard very good things about their wine. I believe the weather may have been far too hot on the day of my visit to give the wine its justice and plan on going back when the ambient temperature is more comfortable.

Clos Pegase ~ 1060 Dunaweal Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-366-8583

Cuvaison - 153

Cuvaison is a well-known name around the Napa valley but I didn't realize the winery had such longevity; Thomas Cotrell and Thomas Parkhill purchased 27 acres  on the Silverado Trail, about half way between St. Helena and Calistoga. The past 35 years have seen a number of different captains the Cuvaison ship, with additional property acquired on Mt. Veeder and a substantial hunk of land in Carneros.

Now, with substantial business growth, one of Cuvaison's major claims to fame is that 20% of their 60,000 cases is sold internationally. This makes them often more well known outside the United States than within it. Also, of these 60,000 some-odd cases, over 65% of that is purely Chardonnay. Occasionally there are arguments that too much Cabernet Sauvignon is being made, but I believe many forget that it is really Chardonnay that leads the pack in grape growth.

The Cuvaison guest center is surprisingly small considering the volume production of the winery. It is small, yet charming. The interior of the building houses the tasting room and sales area. The staff working the room are pleasant and helpful. Another advantage of note is that this is one of the many wineries north of Deer Park Road on the Trail that has a picnic area. I continue to be astonished at the number of wineries that allow this located in this vicinity.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - Green grass and lemon peel on the nose. Classically tangy entry with a full mouth of grapefruit. Spicy finish. $19.00

2003 Chardonnay, Carneros - 75% malo - Luscious stone fruit with well-integrated oak. Creamy sense of meringue on the entry, deepening to flavors of nutmeg. Tangy, lime finish. $35.00

2004 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir - Very, very pale pink color. Surprisingly creamy nose with a tease of berry. Tangy entry but no discernible flavors. $16.00

2003 Estate Pinot - Dripping wet with cherry, raspberry, and strawberry up front surrounding a core of vanilla oak. Dense and chewy with a harsh entry despite the great nose. Mineral finish thins and surprises from the big start. $48.00

2002 Syrah - Some moldy funk behind dark berry and black fruit. White pepper whispers in the back of the nostrils. Hot, tight entry softens a bit, showing surprisingly red, bright fruit. $28.00

2003 Espiritu Port - An odd combination of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, fortified with brandy. Petrol nose - behind the alcohol, mostly green olive aromas. Biting entry burns a bit. $35.00/375 ml

Cuvaison ~ 4550 Silverado Trail ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 707-942-6266

William Hill - 112

William Hill Winery is one of those belonging to the large conglomerate of Allied Domecq. But I, for one, see nothing wrong with the continuing globalization of wineries -- in many ways, it adds to consistency and stability; something that many smaller, family-owned wineries are unable to obtain.

Considering its physical size, William Hill is also one of those off-the-beat-and-track, compared to many sitting directly on Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail. It is on a backroad, off Atlas Peak Drive, in what is considered the Silverado Bench. I have classified this winery under three different appellations; the Atlas Peak Appellation, where their Chardonnay and some premium Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, Carneros, where they have 80-some acres of additional Chardonnay, and the Napa Appellation, for much of their remaining grape supply.  I understand that there are powers at work to make the Silverado Bench a new appellation within the Napa Valley and I hope to come back to this listing in the future to update it.

There is a long, grand twisting driveway that leads to where the buildings lie. The grounds are certainly worth a stroll because the facilities sit just a bit higher on the property, providing a sweeping view of the south end of Napa that is quite incomparable. Granted, there are mountain wineries which offer a different perspective, but this one is quite special.

The tasting room itself is bright and open with a touch of modern art in its austerity. Adjacent to the tasting bar, is a large, full-length open window which shows the cellaring of barrels; hundreds and hundreds of barrels. There are two tastings; the Napa Valley Tasting includes three wines for $5.00, or the Estate Tasting which is four wines for $10.00. I opted for both, wanting to taste across the spectrum, with the exception of the Chardonnay (as I had been tasting nothing but red all day, I wasn't ready to go back):

2001 Malbec - 88% Malbec, 8% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. A tease of soy sauce and barbecue in its Syrah-like aromas, under which explodes dark berry fruit and a hint of strawberry. Subtle oak tendencies show in the initial taste, heightened by up-front acidity, a decidedly blueberry mid-palate, and an integrated, woody finish. $30.00

2001 Merlot - 88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opulent bouquet of boysenberries, dark plum, and hints of rustic herbs. Even, balanced entry brightens a bit showing smooth fruit. Not a fruit bomb by any stretch, with a slightly tinny finish. $20.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petite Verdot. Immediate aroma of vanilla and then fruit which is pretty strong and forward. A second swirl shows oak, cassis, blueberry, and black cherry. The mouth entry is bright but layers into depths that include all the fruit plus some leather. Slightly dry finish but opulent and smooth. $22.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, and 1% Merlot. Dark berry liqueur with a hint of soy sauce. Sweet entry with a chew mid-palate. Heightened acidity shows touches of sweet cherry in the finish. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah - 80% Petite Sirah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Merlot. Dark, inky purple color with ripe plum liqueur tones. Behind the sweetness of the liqueur are darker barbecued meat and sweet soy sauce. Full, rich aromas don't provide the 'pow' factor in the first sip and the wine smells fruitier than it tastes. The smooth, easy-drinking wine displays a 'pop' in the mid-palate and a nice, lingering finish. $30.00

William Hill Winery ~ 1761 Atlas Peak Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707.224.5424

Clos du Val - 63

Clos du Val is among those in Napa which has an amazing reputation and long-established reputation. In 1972, John Goelet and Bernard Portet, an American business and French winemaker respectively, joined forces in establishing one of the more famous wineries in the Napa Valley. Their reputation grew and by 1976, was one of the very few California wineries represented in the now-famous Paris competition.

The truly stunning building complex can be seen from the roadway, vine-covered, warm, and inviting.

The tasting room is always crowded and the staff extremely amiable. I have brought a lot of friends to Clos du Val because of their reputation for quality wines and excellent service. I'm just having difficulty getting beyond the overtly green Stags Leap qualities in the premium offerings.

2002 Ariadne - 73% Semillon and 27% Sauvignon Blanc demonstrated crisp grassy notes layered with kiwi fruit. A surprisingly creamy entry finished with a punctuated tanginess. $21.00

2003 Carneros Chardonnay - A light, non-malo prepared Chardonnay shows tropical fruits with a touch of apricot in aromas. Nine months in French oak have given the mouth feel some darker vanilla notes. $21.00

2001 Carneros Pinot Noir - Immediate earthy, bretty tones with a mineral mid-palate failed to impress. $38.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - Fresh strawberry and raspberry scents present themselves immediately which follows in taste, accented with layered tones of black cherry, an earthy mid-palate, and a lively, spicy finish. $24.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot - Intense aromas of green bell pepper predominate, with secondary dense brambleberry in nose and mouth. 6% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc give this wine a bit more earth but it still seems muddled. $25.00

2000 Stags Leap District Cabernet - Intense, burning green bell pepper which was tight and acidic. Maybe it will even out with age. $62.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Barnyard and hospital aromas belie the fruity entry with a dry, mid-palate and pale, earthy finish. $28.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Overwhelming green bell pepper beyond which I perceived very little. $28.00

2001 Reserve Zinfandel, Stags Leap District - Classic SLD green bell pepper with a spicy entry that fails to go anywhere. $40.00

Clos du Val ~ 5330 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-5225

Artesa - 46

Artesa Winery is hands-down one of the most stunningly beautiful establishments in all of winedom. Owned by Spanish-based Cordoniu, it was constructed in 1991 to be a sparkling wine producer. I believe my first visit there was in '92 or '93 and I remember well the peaceful, serene surroundings and ultra-elegant glasses of bubbly shared on the terrace over looking the Carneros appellation. But that was over then years ago. Back then, when you drove up, you could actually see the building...

With all its glitz and glamor, Artesa is not located within eye-shot of a major highway. There is no ostentatious edifice which will lure in the uninitiated. You have to hunt for it and even when you think you might be close, you aren't sure. After driving off a small, access road and around some small hills, all you see is a bump on a grassy hill. Yes, when I first visited the winery ten years ago, the building structure was visible and now it is submerged. You drive up a meandering, slightly twisty road -- past a farmhouse here and a smaller winery there, until the grand fairy mound magically appears.

Then, you actually see stairs, flanked by thin, parallel fountains with water that runs down as you ascend, like a stream coming down a mountain. At the pinnacle, a large pool of dark water with modern cleaves of metal jutting out and fountains which anoint the visitor with a mist, a spray to cleanse before entering.  A sharp, black glass angle heaves its way from the organic mass next to the threshold - making its presence known. You are Thomas Mann's Hans Castorp and this magic mountain will transform.

Stepping inside is a moment of metamorphosis. Warm wood and spaces separated only with clear glass and a multitude of smooth columns, the immensity is immediately apparent. Art is everywhere. Sculptures of glass, paper, clay, wood, and more -- not crowded and overwhelming, but strategically placed in such a manner to complement and entice. A non-art lover might never realize what surrounds them. And if a history buff is part of the entourage, neither will they be disappointed as an extensive historical museum has been established, instructing in both the history of the area as well as the history of wine in general.

Besides the tremendous growth of grass over the estate, a few other changes have been underway. While an occasional sparkling is now made, in 1999 the company changed direction entirely towards the production of still wine. To my immense joy, the winery has also established an artist-in-residence program as well, which explains the ever-evolving display which so entranced yours truly. The tasting room is large, but there are only two tasting bars to accommodate the crowds, although guests are more than welcome to sit at one of the many minimalist-designed seatings. One bar is devoted to VIPs and wine club guests. The only complaint, if there could be one, is with the acoustics. With the vaulted ceilings set above voluminous amounts of wood and glass, when the room is full it becomes very, very loud. Visit Artesa, but go on a weekday and if you admire modern art, make sure to give yourself ample time -- this is not an establishment that can be rushed. Oh yeah, and they make pretty good wine, too:

2001 Artesa Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County - Light garnet color with a warm, dark berry nose. Well-balanced acidity complements the Indian spices which tantalize the finish. $25.00

2002 Artesa Pinot Noir, Carneros - Effusive, black raspberry bouquet gave way to dark, spicy notes. Almost the antithesis of the bright, engaging mouth entry which finished quite smoothly. $20.00

2002 Artesa Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros - Exciting classic fruit combinations of cherry, blueberry, and cassis produce an elegant aroma. A soft entry produces more cherry and complements with spice. More balanced and expansive than the previous two with a long, round finish. $40.00

2000 Artesa Merlot, Sonoma Valley - Hints of green bell pepper give way to bigger plum nose qualities. Huge mid-palate of vanilla with a dry-ish, spicy finish. $19.99

2000 Artesa Merlot, Napa Valley - Bigger green bell pepper aromas, akin to the Stags Leap District. Darker fruit of black plum with relatively soft tannins. $19.99

2001 Merlot, Napa Valley - Orangy, garnet color. Bright berry and cherry with a hint of a green, mineral finish. It approaches the tongue as soda-pop would; effusive cherry cola but lays back to produce earthier qualities. $19.99

2000 Artesa Reserve Merlot, Sonoma Valley - Elegant, candy-like bouquet which blossoms with full, dark brambleberries. The candy in the nose transforms into rose petals on the tongue followed by darker berries, vanilla, and a distinct coffee-like finish. $50.00

2001 Artesa Syrah, Sonoma Valley - Exciting dark fruits like black plum, black raspberry, and blackberry that is full and balanced. Very, very easy to drink. This would make a great beginner's Syrah as an introduction wine. $15.99

2001 Elements Proprietary Blend - 72% Merlot, 10% Syrah, and the rest a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and 2% Tempranillo. This wine as touted as an "exotic and spicy blend of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals." Interesting concept. There is definitely a WOW factor with the first sniff which produces candied red hots and subsides to produce lots of fruit. The mouth entry is bright and the subsequent taste is not exceptionally full or deep, but very, very interesting and fun. $19.99

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley - Jammy and perfumey with floral tones in its aroma. Very soft, velvety entry which tightens a bit. Herbal finish that is surprisingly accommodating. $30.00

2001 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - A bit of candy shop on the nose in its vanilla and bright berry fruit. Dry mid-palate shows dark spices like clove and cumin which belies its overall brightness. $30.00

2000 Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Huge, syrupy, sweet nose. Port-like aromas do not prepare for the velvety, creamy entry. Long and silky a mid-palate of vanilla extract with hints of balsamic that finishes rather earthy. $60.00

NV Artesa Select Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, San Benito County - At 9.5% residual sugar, I would have thought this wine sweeter than it was. Pale, straw-like colors do not anticipate the strikingly bright and smooth entry. Aromas of litchi and apricot do not prepare for the taste which is the pure Essence of Gewurztraminer. Surprisingly smooth and even with a silky finish. $27.50

Artesa ~ 1345 Henry Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94559 ~ 707-224-1668

Robert Sinskey Vineyards - 25

Before I moved to the Napa Valley, I would drive up on three- and four-day weekends from Los Angeles.  Robert Sinskey Vineyards was one of my favorite wineries during every visit. This is the bain of the neophyte visitor -- you find a great place and it is hard to move on to discover other great places, but always happy and satisfied knowing an old friend is there for you. I was initially drawn to Sinskey because of a friend's invitation, but have gone back many times because of their Pinots.

One of the many charms that Sinskey offers is more than good wine. I have always received exceptional, personal service from the pouring staff. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with architecture that is both modern and austere, yet constructed of wood that is warm and inviting.  For its categorization, I have placed it in both the Napa Carneros appellation, where the bulk of their vineyards are located (200+ acres) as well as the Stag's Leap District appellation, where their winery physically stands but is also the home of their Cabernet vineyards (4 acres of Cabernet and 1/2 acre of Merlot).

The entry into the tasting room presents exaulted, open ceilings and a semi-round tasting bar which instead of offering sharp, angular, psychologically sharp corners, softens the room making it immediately comfortable and inviting. There are many of the standard retail items strewn about, but not blatantly so and more set back. Directly behind the tasting bar are large, glass windows behind which displays part of the wine making area with stainless steel vats. At the end of a normally retail-oriented space, is a small presentation kitchen with wood-fired stone oven. This is all related to Maria Helms-Sinskey's belief that wine tastes better with food and has subsequently also written the well known The Vineyard Kitchen.

When tasting their wine, they continue with the philosophy that wine pairs better with food. Inasmuch, small ramekins of rosemary-scented Marconi almonds and Nicoise olives are set out with olive oil crackers to taste with the wine. And one last point before the wine notes; I was a tad surprised that much of the Pinot I tasted for this blog is the same vintage that I tasted three years ago; 2000. However, I have been assured that a number of new vintages will be released at the beginning of March; a 2002 Los Carneros Pinot and the 2001 Four Vineyards. More exciting, however, is the news that later in the year will be the presentation of some vineyard-specific Pinots which I will anxiously await: The Vandal Vineyard, The Three Amigos, and The Capa Vineyard Pinots.

2003 Pinot Blanc, Los Carneros - 100% stainless steel produces a surprisingly warm nose of aromatic jasmine and citrus blossom. Thick, engaging mid-palate which produces melon flavors. The tanginess that is normally perceived in Sauvignon Blanc appears in this wine as part of the finish. $18.00

2002 Chardonnay, Three Amigos Vineyard - Los Carneros of Napa Valley - Eight to ten months of French oak don't overpower this Chard, probably because there was no malo fermentation used. Initial bouquet of apple and vanilla anticipates the deeper flavors of pear and toasted nut. Very long, silky finish. $30.00

2004 Vin Gris - Pinot Noir Rose - Beautiful peach color with wild strawberry aromas. Extremely bright and engaging. Warm nose with a soft entry that builds and effuses. Keeps going and going. Must try with BBQ! $16.00

2000 Four Vineyards Pinot Noir - Los Carneros of Napa Valley - Very bright red raspberry nose just barely hides a secondary aroma of vegetal pepper. First tastes produce strawberry and minerally tones which give way to a slightly acidic finish that diminishes quickly. Having tasted this vintage upon its release several years ago, I believe the wine is waning. $46.00

2001 Merlot - Los Carneros of Napa Valley - A blend of 76% Merlot with 24% Cabernet, but this Cabernet was not from Stag's Leap, but Carneros. Green bell pepper bouquet which made me think it might have been from Stag's Leap District, but I think the bell pepper aromas were the Cabernet. Harsh, astringent entry with a hint of mint in the mid-palate. Tannic finish. $26.00

1999 Vineyard Reserve, Napa Valley - 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Another earthy entry, quite probably from Stag's Leap District Cabernet. Bouquet of mint and spice. Extracted pine in the mouth with a cocoa finish. $36.00

Robert Sinskey Vineyards ~ 6320 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-944-9090

Domaine Carneros - by Taittinger - 23

First off, a note about the appellation... Carneros is an oddity among appellations as it has vineyards and wineries in both Napa county and Sonoma county - it is the only appellation to break county lines. Consequently, there is Carneros Napa and there is Carneros Sonoma. I suppose if I weren't trying to categorize my entries by County AND Appellation, I wouldn't have this problem, but I do. On that note, a not-to-be missed winery in EITHER county is Domaine Carneros by Taittinger.

Domaine Carneros is the brainchild of the Taittinger family in France as their efforts to bring their sparkling wine skills to California. The building "was inspired by the historic and lovely Louis XV style Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne, France. The site of the Marquette was originally an abbey press house. In the 17th Century Frere Oudart, the abbey's cellarmaster made significant contributions to refining the Champagne making process. Today the Chateau de la Marquetterie in France is the country home and estate of the Taittinger family."

We have this amazing replica of a French chateau but is it all hype? Not in my opinion. While not as exceptional as "real" French champagne, I think there is a great deal of brouhaha about folks not liking California sparkling wine because they compare it to the great houses in Europe, in many ways, there is much to be said for the sparkling wines produced in California. Besides, what I really like about Domaine Carneros is not their sparkling as much as the fact that they produce Pinot...

When you enter the grand building, you are greeted by a multitude of friendly servers and something of an anomoly in wine country tasting rooms: Sit Down Service. No bar to belly-up to here, just a scattering of tables with servers who pour, serve, and inform. When the weather is fair, that service extends to the terrace. Nothing can be nicer than sipping some bubbly while lounging over the span of vineyards in your view. Along with their alcoholic offerings, there is a menu placed before you with cheese trays and caviar. The cheese trays are wine-specific with both an offering for their sparkling service and Pinot service.

For my last visit, we opted for both the sparkling tasting and the Pinot tasting. The sparkling wine is served in appropriately-fluted glasses, but they are charmingly miniature in size, serving a perfect two-ounce pour in what looks like a full glass. There are also laminated cards where they place the glasses so you don't mix up which wine is which. There are always some almonds along with the service as well. The servers work very hard to make sure there is not a long wait as many pull double duty, checking in on tables that have already been served.  And the wines are pretty darned good too:

SPARKLING
2001 Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage - 65% Piont Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Blanc. This wine comprises half of the winery's entire production, about 3,000 cases worth. Bright and unassuming, thre are notes of citrus, melon, and a hint of toasted nut on the nose. Aged on the yeast for three years, it has even yeast structure and doesn't overwhelm. $24.00

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rose - 38% Chardonnay, 62% Pinot Noir, and 5% still Pinot (where the color comes from!). Creamy strawberry bouquet with a hint of peach. This is a winery-only wine which is elegant but I wish a bit more affordable. $34.00

1998 La Reve Blanc de Blanc - La Reve means "the dream" which is a reference to the entire establishment and what the Taittinger family had to go through to get the winery here in Napa. This sparkling is 100% Chardonnay is aged six years and is made in very small quantities. To me, it smells a bit too yeasty upon first whiff which belies its very long, creamy finish. $55.00

STILL
2003 Avant-Garde Pinot Noir - Clear, garnet color. Earthy aromas give way to a full, jammy nose. It is the lightest and fruitiest of the three tasted. Bright raspberries present in the mouth with a finish of orange peel. $27.99

2002 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir - Same garnet color, but a tad darker than the Avant Garde. This Pinot is made in 100% French oak. Huge cherry and vanilla bouquet. There is a peppery, cayenne-like spice which enters with first taste that is strong and acidic but gives way to a more elegant, layered cinnamon and clove spice. $27.00

2001 Famous Gate Pinot Noir - This is a winery-only Pinot and presents a tremendous bright raspberry bouquet with hints of orange underneath. A bit oaky, but not overly so. The initial mouthfeel is fruity with plum and brambleberry, but finishes with tobacco. $50.00

Domaine Carneros ~ 1240 Duhig Road ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-3020